Posted: 24.6.09
Written By: Admin

Two of Scarpa's athletes have just returned from a 2 week trip in Alaska's Ruth Gorge...

Matt Helliker and Jon Bracey have just arrived back in Talkeetna after a productive two weeks in the Ruth Gorge, Alaska. Exceptionally stable weather combined with some good ephemeral ice conditions enabled the team to climb a couple of great new routes.

 

On the 10th May Matt and Jon made an early start and headed for the north face of Mount Grosvenor climbing up a series of stunning ice runnels which threaded a way up through steep granite slabs. Above a beautiful goulotte lead up to the summit ridge providing the crux of the climb, with a steep unprotected pitch of rotten ice and poor ‘ignimbrite’ rock. The east ridge was then followed to the summit before descending down the south face to the col between Mt Grosvenor and Mt Church in limited visibility, and then back to the Ruth Gorge.

‘Meltdown’ ED3, V, M6 R, 1300m. 12 hours climbing time, (20 hours camp to camp).

 

 

Following a few days rest the team prepared to try another new route on the 15th May but awoke to bad weather. Another team who had been climbing Mount Barrill the previous day had not returned. Concerned for their safety Matt and Jon set off to try and find them. After finding the missing climbers skis at the base of the Japanese couloir they continued on up the climb to the summit but found no trace of them. Thankfully the climbers had managed to endure a tough night out in the storm and descended the heavily crevassed and serac threatened NW face rather than the normal option of returning back down the route.

 

The sun returned and on the 17th May the pair climbed another new route, this time on the north face of Mount Church. Good snow and ice conditions saw the team quickly established high on the face below a critical overhanging chimney full of snow. Matt battled away slowly inching his way upwards before finally success was hard won. A return to good ice soon saw the team on 250 metres of snow flutings that led up to the east ridge. The final ridge proved to be far from easy with big cornices and steps of very unstable ‘ignimbrite’ again.

‘For whom the bell tolls’ ED2, V, grade 6 ice and mixed, 1150m. 10 hours climbing, (17 hours camp to camp).

 

The team would like to thank the BMC/UKSport for their expedition grant. And also to the following companies for the continued support:

DMM, Patagonia, Osprey Packs, Scarpa, Adidas eyewear, Maximuscle, and Suunto