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| Dunbarton Rock |
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Since an abortive session in Parassellas cave I have rediscovered my passion for bouldering. Flailing in the cave a few weeks back made me realise the importance of feeling strong and that all my climbing depends upon being able to boulder hard. This realisation brought me back to my old Dumby projects and some proper hard training in my flat. For too long had I been messing about on jugs at the wall.
First up at Dumby was a repeat of a Macleod font 8B called 'Sanction'. This had stopped me for some time but an increased heel-hooking ability enabled me to make the second ascent of this three star problem. Next was the second ascent of 'Shahala' sit down. Origionally given 8a, this one is at least 8a+ and is super fingery, very hard. With these two out of the way I needed a project and set my sights on the super-classic link-up of 'Serum of Sisyphus' with 'Sanction'. 'Sisyphus' is 8a or 8a+ to an ab-wrecking upside down rest on a knee bar, before finishing up 'Sanction'. The first ascent came early on Saturday, helped by perfect conditions and a psyche that I haven't felt in years. I named the link 'Gut Buster' and I reckon font 8b+ is a realistic grade for it. It's one of the very hardest thing's I've climbed and is up there with dreamtime, Pilgrimage and monk life in terms of difficulty. There are some projects left to do there, including a possible font 8C,I might have to resort to the brocolli for that one though.
Malc
By Malcolm Smith - Posted on 3.10.08 16:39 40 |
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| Spain again, and Yorkshire |
We ended up back at Chorro and Archidona for another trip. We watched Bernabe Fernandes try a 90 meter, yes 90 meter long traverse of the cave at Archidona. He was on the route for well over an hour and he even carried a water bottle to sip whilst resting at the half-way slot. I complained of not having enough Stamina to complete the crux of my route at 20 meters, I don't think he was impressed and told me that my route was a boulder problem. I wanted to explain that I get pumped beyond 5 meters but I didn't think he'd understand. It was truly impressive to watch him go. These guys need a high level of general fitness for steep routes of that length, quite different to pulling on a few small crimps at Malham. I reckon I had one good day all trip when I onsighted a couple of 8a's. It was too warm for the mini crimps on my Archidona 8c, close though. I'll have to go back.
Back in damp old England I've been plugging away in Yorkshire, culminating in an ascent of 'Unjustified' at Malham, a bit soft for 8c perhaps but I'll take the tick. 'Power Ranger' felt ever bit as hard, I'll need to finish that off. An excellent effort from Littlefair doing 'Power Ranger' since the hold broke. One of my buddies broke a hold off 'True North' so we'll have to wait for McLure to re-climb it, my guess is 8c+ unless some glue is used (we need some Sika again please Steve D). Maybe 75kg heavy weights like myself and the other hold breaker should be banned from the crags, all we do is destroy the rock.
Once again I need to train harder. I hear the top dog Spaniards do 600 moves per training session then max out on pull-ups, what have they ever done at Dumbarton.
By Malcolm Smith - Posted on 3.6.08 12:12 02 |
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| Spanish sports climbing |
I just got back from a great trip to southern Spain, climbing in El Chorro and Archidona. It rained a bit which curtailed our hopes of visiting the best crag in Chorro, the one with 'Lourdes'. Instead we got to visit Archidona, what a crag. The routes are all super steep and some are 40 metres long. I was trying a brilliant 8c which went the full distance as well as ticking off some of the easier classics. I got my 8a onsight ticked but I can't say I was climbed well, I felt fit but seemed to be reading moves like a donkey. I guess there's no substitute for real rock. It's so hard to feel strong, fit, light and be climbing well all at the same time. I need to adjust my training to feature more proper hard moves, rather than just doing my favourite 8a+ route for the tenth time and expecting that to be enough. I want to be doing hard moves indoors, trying desperate circuits and really pushing myself in training, must try harder! Its got me motivated though.
Malc
By Malcolm Smith - Posted on 25.2.08 09:24 42 |
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| Training,training,training |
Over the last two months of terrible weather here in Glasgow I have mainly been training. What else can you do unless you climb winter things! Ratho has been the place, I love it there, there's looong routes and better still an amazing gym which is always quiet. I'm trying to combine training for bouldering, route stuff and weight lifting which isn't easy, I train 6 days a week! My proudest achievement of late has been my 190kg deadlift, not impressive really, but not bad for a skinny climber, 200kg soon I hope. Very few climbers are what you could call strong in a general sense but I want to be one. Light, able to clean and jerk 100kg, deadlift 200kg and bench 300lb, thats strong. I hope I can get there, stay light and climb a 9a this year, we shall see. It's hard to be genuinely strong and light!
Malc
By Malcolm Smith - Posted on 8.2.08 16:46 52 |
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