Jo Neame - SCARPA UK

Jo Neame


Poland European Cup photographer Szymon Aksienionek


Name: Jo Neame
 

D.O.B: 02/09/1999
  

Hometown: Born in London, student in Leeds, now living in Munich for a year
 

Sport: Bouldering and Lead 

 

I fell in love with climbing at kids’ birthday party aged 9. A few years in, I decided to focus on competition climbing in both bouldering and lead and have been a member of the GB Climbing Team since the age of 16. I also love climbing outside when I’m not training in the gym.

 

580A5604 British Cup photographer Dom Worrallsq Green Traverse photographer Alex Webb

Get to know Jo

Tell us about your successes so far?

In 2019 I finished 2nd in the British Lead Climbing Championships,  achieved a top 30 finish at the Bouldering World Cup in Chongqing and a top 50 position at the World Lead Climbing Championships.

While comps were largely cancelled in 2020, I decided to shift my focus to rock for a bit and managed to redpoint 8b and boulder 7c+ on grit, each in one session. I also achieved my highest flash grade, leading 7c+/8a.

What are you working on? What are your goals for the future?

My main goal is to compete at the Olympics, whether that be in 2024 or 2028 (or both!). I would also like to push my grade outdoors, both in boulder and lead - maybe 9a one day?

Why do you climb? What do you love about climbing?

I love everything about it! Whether I’m in a flow state, being totally immersed in smooth movement, or getting ridiculously pumped and pushing my limits, I’m having a good time.

Climbing is such a varied sport and it takes you to such interesting places that it could never bore me.

Which Scarpa shoe is your favourite?

The Drago. I generally prefer softer shoes as comp climbing often requires smearing on volumes, but I find that the Dragos aren’t so soft that they sacrifice the support needed to stand on tiny edges.

Recently I have been wearing the Drago LVs more often; however, I am a fan of the original Dragos as well for the slightly wider fit.

Tell us about your best day climbing?

A difficult question, as there have been so many incredible days!

Probably the day I came 2nd in the British Lead Champs. I had my mind set on winning the title but was still chuffed to come away with 2nd, knowing that I had fought to my absolute limit on every route both in qualifications and finals.

It’s not often I come away from a comp feeling that I have absolutely given it my all, without making avoidable mistakes, but this one sticks in my memory as an exception.

What do you do away from your sport?

I am currently studying in Munich for a year as part of my degree in Film Studies and German. I am a fan of arthouse cinema, visiting museums and art galleries, and of course adventures in the outdoors.

Where is your #NoPlacetooFar?

I have always wanted to visit Boulder in Colorado. A gorgeous city in an amazing landscape surrounded by awesome climbing spots. There’s not much more you could ask for. .

 

Get Social 

Keep up with the latest from Jo on Social Media

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Photo Credits

Sam Pratt, Szymon Aksienionek, Alex Webb, Marsha Balaeva, Dom Worrall

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