Jon Bracey - SCARPA UK

Jon Bracey

Jon Bracey is one of Britain’s foremost alpinists having climbed many hard mixed routes in the Alps and established several new routes in Alaska, Greenland and the Himalayas. Along with his passion for expedition climbing, Jon has competed for Great Britain at the Ski Mountaineering World Championships, the Patrouille des Glaciers and the Pierra Menta.

Living in Les Houches with his family, he enjoys working year round as a IFMGA mountain guide. “I love the challenges of guiding classic north faces and harder winter climbs. Nothing beats seeing the immense satisfaction of clients on realizing their dreams”.

Jon soon established himself as a major player in the alpine scene, racking up a truly impressive array of ascents. To date he has been on 12 expeditions to the Greater Ranges and has made numerous first ascents in Alaska, Greenland and the Himalayas. For example, to highlight but a few of the many, Silence of the Seracs ED2 on the north face of Tupilak in Greenland, There’s a Moose Loose Aboot this Hoose, an ED4 on the Moose’s Tooth in Alaska and Meltdown ED3 on Mount Grosvener in Alaska.

He has also bagged plenty of hard alpine repeats, including the first British ascent of the Bonatti-Vaucher ED4 on the north face of the Grand Jorasses, the 1938 Route on the north face of the Eiger and both Moonflower (which Jon describes as “the best mixed route in the world” ) and the North Couloir ED3 on the North Buttress of Hunter in Alaska.

Jon has always been a keen devotee of Scottish winter climbing. In 2006, with Martin Moran and Rich Cross he made the first ascent of Hydroponicum VIII 8 on the Far East Wall of Beinn Eighe. In late 2010 he grabbed the third ascent of The Godfather VIII 8 on Beinn Bhan, again climbing with Rich Cross.

Jon also cites a number of classic Scottish summer routes as major highlights: Rory Rum the Story Man E5 6a on the imposing Dun Mingulay sea cliff in the Hebrides and The Voyage of the Beagle E5 6a on Creag an Dubh Loch. Living in Chamonix, it is little surprise that Jon has become involved in the snowboarding and skiing scene. Snowboarding the northeast face of Les Courtes gave a real fear inducing trip, but one which he survived intact.

In recent winters he has focused upon ski alpine racing and has competed for Great Britain in events such as the Ski Mountaineering World Championships, the Pierra Menta, and the Patrouille des Glaciers.

For this winter I would love to do a hard route on the Eiger and the Grandes Jorasses. True winter ascents are super hard but intensely rewarding!! Plus I’m hoping to beat my 25th place from the 2010 Pierra Menta- although I’m not looking forward to all the crazy training….well I kinda love it too!!!

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