Yann Genoux

I am from Burgundy in France, but I'm now permanently based in London with Evie and her daughter Emily. I work here as a full-time setter.

I started climbing at the age of 18, when I was working as a carpenter in France at a place called ‘L Argentiere La Bessee’. My boss at the time was the father of Francois Lombard and Francois got me into climbing. A great introduction… I got instantly hooked!

Not long after that, I moved to England to work in traditional oak frame carpentry. Climbing became more than a passion, it became my life, so I climbed more and more and I also started developing an interest in route-setting. I met a friend who wanted to make a bouldering wall in London and I gave up carpentry went to work for him there. Since then I combined my experience outdoors in some amazing places like France, Spain, Switzerland, Thailand, Turkey, and many trips as often as possible in this country, to set for walls and competitions. 

I prefer routes to boulders, I guess I get more satisfaction, and it lasts longer! I am a big fan of technical dynamic movement involving timing and coordination, but also technical climbing with knee bars, heel and toe hook and all sorts of tricks.


-Hometown-

Burgundy, France

-Projects-

Sport Climber mainly, Boulder, Route Setter, and also Fishing!

-Successes-

Experienced routesetter having set 6 IFSC lead World Cups, redpointed F8c, F8b+ First Ascent, onsighted F8a's and bouldered font 8a.

-Favourite Scarpa-

Instinct VSR, the most precise shoe I have ever worn, for tiny edges , smears or hooking, this shoe was the key to some of my hardest sends!

-No Place too Far-

Canada. Living in a log cabin that I built, by a lake, with the mountains in the background.


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