Name: Jo Neame
Hometown: Born in London, student in Leeds, now living in Munich for a year
Sport: Bouldering and Lead
I fell in love with climbing at kids’ birthday party aged 9. A few years in, I decided to focus on competition climbing in both bouldering and lead and have been a member of the GB Climbing Team since the age of 16. I also love climbing outside when I’m not training in the gym.
Get to know Jo
Tell us about your successes so far?
In 2019 I finished 2nd in the British Lead Climbing Championships, achieved a top 30 finish at the Bouldering World Cup in Chongqing and a top 50 position at the World Lead Climbing Championships.
While comps were largely cancelled in 2020, I decided to shift my focus to rock for a bit and managed to redpoint 8b and boulder 7c+ on grit, each in one session. I also achieved my highest flash grade, leading 7c+/8a.
What are you working on? What are your goals for the future?
My main goal is to compete at the Olympics, whether that be in 2024 or 2028 (or both!). I would also like to push my grade outdoors, both in boulder and lead - maybe 9a one day?
Why do you climb? What do you love about climbing?
I love everything about it! Whether I’m in a flow state, being totally immersed in smooth movement, or getting ridiculously pumped and pushing my limits, I’m having a good time.
Climbing is such a varied sport and it takes you to such interesting places that it could never bore me.
Which Scarpa shoe is your favourite?
The Drago. I generally prefer softer shoes as comp climbing often requires smearing on volumes, but I find that the Dragos aren’t so soft that they sacrifice the support needed to stand on tiny edges.
Recently I have been wearing the Drago LVs more often; however, I am a fan of the original Dragos as well for the slightly wider fit.
Tell us about your best day climbing?
A difficult question, as there have been so many incredible days!
Probably the day I came 2nd in the British Lead Champs. I had my mind set on winning the title but was still chuffed to come away with 2nd, knowing that I had fought to my absolute limit on every route both in qualifications and finals.
It’s not often I come away from a comp feeling that I have absolutely given it my all, without making avoidable mistakes, but this one sticks in my memory as an exception.
What do you do away from your sport?
I am currently studying in Munich for a year as part of my degree in Film Studies and German. I am a fan of arthouse cinema, visiting museums and art galleries, and of course adventures in the outdoors.
I have always wanted to visit Boulder in Colorado. A gorgeous city in an amazing landscape surrounded by awesome climbing spots. There’s not much more you could ask for. .
Keep up with the latest from Jo on Social Media
Sam Pratt, Szymon Aksienionek, Alex Webb, Marsha Balaeva, Dom Worrall