Molly Thompson-Smith

Name: Molly Thompson-Smith

DOB: 07/11/97

Hometown: London

Sport: Climbing

As a kid I always chose a sport for a birthday party activity, and when I was 7 I decided to try climbing for the first time... and was instantly hooked! After that, I started to compete at national youth comps, slowly making my way up the rankings before I was selected for the GB Climbing Team. I’ve spent the last 11 years travelling to compete on the international circuit.

As I’ve gotten a bit older, I’ve found a passion for rock climbing, and have been trying to push my limits in both sport climbing and bouldering around my training schedule and during the off season.

Get to know Molly

Tell us about your successes so far?

3rd IFSC World Cup Kranj 2017

CWIF 2020 Winner 8b onsight (Odysseus - Götterwandl) Aug 2020

Coming back from a triple pulley rupture!

What are you working on? What are your goals for the future?

I’m working towards Olympic qualification in Paris 2024, alongside aiming for success at World Cups and Championships over the next few years. On rock I’d like to climb some classic British routes and boulders like Hubble, Rainshadow and Superman. .

Outside of climbing, I’d like to start doing more work within the climbing community to improve it’s accessibility and diversity. And eventually I’d like to be involved in the development of our future British climbing superstars!

Why do you climb? What do you love about climbing?

I love how climbing feels like working on a puzzle – unlocking the correct beta or sequence for yourself on routes and boulders, and being one move closer each time is super exciting for me! I also love doing a sport that’s so varied and can take you all over the world. .

Which Scarpa shoe is your favourite?

For competitions the Drago LV; it’s such a good all rounder for me. For climbing on rock I love the Boosters as they somehow manage to be soft but stiff at the same time! They're perfect for precise footwork and can also smear.

Tell us about your best day climbing?

I’m not sure it’s the best, but a great recent one was earlier in April when I climbed Keen Roof. I’d had an early morning gym session at the EIS in Sheffield and drove straight to the Tor. The sun was shining but the rock was still in the shade so it was great conditions. I managed to climb Keen Roof (my first 8B) pretty quickly with my friends there supporting me. Afterwards I sat on a pad in the sunshine, ate a picnic and chatted with friends and supported them on their projects. It was a day where I really feel blessed to be in such a lovely community and be able to enjoy beautiful days outside!

What do you do away from your sport?

I’ve been studying nutrition online to become a nutritionist over the last year. I also love to cook and bake – I'm often trying to hand out baked goods to people at the wall as I’ve made too much!

Where is your #NoPlacetooFar?

Grampians National Park, Australia. So beautiful out there and rock like you've never seen before! From Font like slopey sandstone in the Valley of the Giants, to obvious hold lines on the orange rock of the Hollow Mountain Cave, to the amazing swirly formations found at Kindergarten. Really has it all! .

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Photo Credits

 Allan Bownes

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