Yann Genoux

I am from Burgundy in France, but I'm now permanently based in London with Evie and her daughter Emily. I work here as a full-time setter.

I started climbing at the age of 18, when I was working as a carpenter in France at a place called ‘L Argentiere La Bessee’. My boss at the time was the father of Francois Lombard and Francois got me into climbing. A great introduction… I got instantly hooked!

Not long after that, I moved to England to work in traditional oak frame carpentry. Climbing became more than a passion, it became my life, so I climbed more and more and I also started developing an interest in route-setting. I met a friend who wanted to make a bouldering wall in London and I gave up carpentry went to work for him there. Since then I combined my experience outdoors in some amazing places like France, Spain, Switzerland, Thailand, Turkey, and many trips as often as possible in this country, to set for walls and competitions. 

I prefer routes to boulders, I guess I get more satisfaction, and it lasts longer! I am a big fan of technical dynamic movement involving timing and coordination, but also technical climbing with knee bars, heel and toe hook and all sorts of tricks.


Burgundy, France


Sport Climber mainly, Boulder, Route Setter, and also Fishing!


Experienced routesetter having set 6 IFSC lead World Cups, redpointed F8c, F8b+ First Ascent, onsighted F8a's and bouldered font 8a.

-Favourite Scarpa-

Instinct VSR, the most precise shoe I have ever worn, for tiny edges , smears or hooking, this shoe was the key to some of my hardest sends!

-No Place too Far-

Canada. Living in a log cabin that I built, by a lake, with the mountains in the background.