Dan Varian - Scarpa

Dan Varian

I have trended towards bouldering a lot in recent years as many of our outcrops in the north of England are suited to short solos or boulders. As I've climbed on these more I've tried to eliminate the natural gaps I see for my generation to tackle. I am partial to the odd trad route too but they have been of the short and hard variety again due to the crags. Now that I am back in the lakes I might have a chance to get stuck into the proper mountain trad again if I can stay away from my pads for long enough.

I like boulders with striking visual lines or great moves. I don't tend to like ground skimmers, overly linked up problems or stupidly blinkered/ eliminate ones, there is enough good rock about not to drop standards. Northumberland is where most of my favourite problems are and with Andy and Malcolm and Chris's high-quality additions almost all its hard problems are classics.

I've been putting up high 7's problems and harder since I was 16 and bouldering wasn't that popular, so I feel like I've seen a fair bit of development nowadays. In a way now I'm psyched more than ever and as my base level and strength improves there are some fantastic projects I can get my mitts on for the first time. 



Carlisle, Cumbria


Climbing, 90% bouldering/ short solos. I love trad and sport climbing when it’s on good rock. Trail Running, playing Scrabble and woodwork.


Fulltime job, lovely wife and daughter. Self-taught, never been to a physio, been coached or had a training plan written for me.

A Founder & Director of Beastmaker.

Amateur backyard hobbyist responsible for the development of almost a “Fontainebleaus worth” of 8A-8B+ish problems in the North of the UK. around 70% of which are unrepeated as of 2017. I once established twelve 8A to 8B+, including two 8B+s in just over a month (36 days) in 2015. i felt incredibly lucky to have such a run as it is more than a lot of very good uk boulderers have put up in their lifetimes. Cashmere cat, Downstairs mix up, Flip Flopera, Call me David, Star Power, Crescendo, Second Fiddle, Tsar Pushka, Lotus Feet, Northern Time, Dead Sirius (without the lip for feet) and the beast of Succoth.

-Favourite Scarpa-

Instinct Lace and Drago.

-No Place Too Far-

Fontainebleau, Scotland or Norway in good weather.




Photo Credit - Mark Savage, Adam Long

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