Ted Kingsnorth

I started climbing regularly aged 16 and gained a solid trad apprenticeship in the Lake District, Peak District, North Wales and the Lancashire quarries. Going to Manchester University in the late 90’s, I started bouldering regularly (in the days before mats, only a beer towel if you were lucky!) 

 In the early 2000’s, I started going to Malham and became hooked on sport climbing, doing my first 8a, Raindogs. Bouldering in the Peak, I increased my standard to Font 8A. This helped me a lot with sport climbing culminating in 2009 with an ascent of Mecca – The Midlife Crisis 8b+, and sub 2 hour ascents of The Austrian Oak 8b at Malham and Zeke the Freak 8b at Rubicon.

In the past, I have done a lot of trad climbing, my best achievement being an onsight of Bastille E6 at High Tor. I have also climbed E5’s at Pembroke, Gogarth and in the Peak including Headhunter, The Cruise and London Wall. During a spell living in Jersey in 2010, I ticked some classic multipitch E5’s on the unspoilt granite seacliffs including Tax Exile and did some bouldering first ascents. In the Dolomites in 2009, I climbed Attraverso Il Pesco (or The Fish) 7b+ on the south face of Marmolada and the Brander/Hasse 7a+ on the north face of the Cima Grade. In 2014, I climbed the south face of the Grand Capucin in the Mont Blanc Massif via O Sole Mio 6c.

 After a year living in Devon and Dorset and climbing regularly at Portland, Anstey’s Cove and on Dartmoor granite, I returned to Manchester in 2011 to focus on sport climbing in the Peak and Yorkshire. A real breakthrough was climbing my first 8c, Mecca Extension in 2013. I have made many trips over the years to Smith Rock, Oregon as I love the face and arete climbing on offer there. In 2014, I made the third British ascent of the USA’s first 5.14a (or 8b+) To Bolt of Not to Be and onsighted my first 8a, Times Up. In 2014, I climbed some of the harder, classic Yorkshire fitness routes including Overjustified 8b+, Bat Route 8c and Cry Freedom 8c at Malham. I also managed to complete my long term project Kaabah, the direct finish to Mecca at Raven Tor, which was my first 8c+.

 In 2015, I made the fifth ascent of Hajj 8c, the left hand extension to Mecca. In 2017, I managed to tick True North 8c at Kilnsey and make the second ascent of a new variation finish to Cry Freedom at Malham, Something for Nothing 8c. I have also worked at my bouldering in the last two years and have increased my max grade to Font 8A+ with ascents of Enter the Dragon V12 at Tremeirchion and Drink Driving on Pil Box Wall in North Wales.

In the coming years, I hope to get back to Smith Rock for more attempts at Just Do It 8c+, which I have been trying since 2015.


-Hometown-

Manchester, UK

-Projects-

Bouldering and sport climbing. Outside of climbing, I am an avid reader.

-Successes-

My hardest sport route is Kaabah 8c+, the direct finish to Mecca 8b+ at Raven Tor in the Peak District. I have also climbed 6 other routes graded 8c including two in the spring of 2017, True North at Kilnsey and the second ascent of Something for Nothing at Malham Cove. - Probably my best achievement abroad was climbing 'To Bolt or Not to Be' a climb rated 8b+ in Smith Rock in 2014. This famous, 35m smooth vertical face is a very sustained face climb and was the first 5.14a route climbed in the USA in 1986 by Frenchman, Jean Baptiste Tribout. - I have also climbed two boulder problems graded V12, 'Enter the Dragon' at Tremeirchion and 'Drink Driving' at Pil Box Wall, both in North Wales.

-Favourite Scarpa-

My favourite Scarpa is currently the Instinct VSR. Having recently tried out a pair of the VSR's on a trip to Smith Rock in Oregon, USA, I was quickly won over by their sensitivity on the smallest smears and their light weight, a significant asset on very long pitches. Quite a weapon for the hardest routes and not just for indoors!

-No Place too Far-

Smith Rock in Oregon, USA is my destination of choice as I have spent several trips exploring the classic, historic routes this unique area has to offer. If you like edge cranking and towering, laser cut aretes then this place is definitely for you.

 

 


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