Tim is a professional climber and coach. In 2020 he established Mission to Mars, WI 13, the first route of this grade, at Helmcken Falls, Canada. He has climbed 5.14 Traditionally protected rock climbs and also F8c+ sport. In 2015 Tim won the RedBull, White Cliffs competition, on the Isle of White. A pioneer of Deep Water Soloing (DWS) solo climbing above water with no ropes or equipment and also Para Alpinism (Climbing and BASE jumping) He has established many first ascents globally and is a former Wingsuit B.A.S.E. jumper, Author and popular International Speaker. Tim continues to push the boundaries of physical and mental performance.
In 2006 Tim climbed a new route on the East Face on Kedar Dome, Indian Himalaya (6840M), in Super Alpine style, and nominated for the Piolet D'Or (climbing’s equivalent to the Oscars). Tim also achieved podium position 4 times at the World Ice Climbing Championships.
Tim enjoys many other sports including Skiing, Snow Boarding, Free Diving, Skeleton, Bobsleigh, Kite Boarding, Mountain Biking and Heli Boarding. Tim is the Patron of the Charity “Breathtakers”. He graduated with Marine Zoology and has great interest in Nutrition and Training.
Get to know Tim
Tell us about your successes so far?
I’ve been climbing for 32 years and still absolutely love it. Climbing has transformed my life and I’ve been climbing professionally for then last 25 years. Some of the highlights are:
ICE - Mission to Mars WI 13 - FA, 2020 Helmcken Falls, BC Canada.
MIXED - Musashi M12 - Alberta, Canada
ROCK (Trad) - The Path 5.14aR (E10 6c)- Lake Louise, Canada - Muy Caliente E9 6c FA, - Pembroke, UK - Meshuga E9 6c 3rd Asc, - Black Rocks,
UK ROCK (Sport) - Superman 5.14c (8c+) - Squamish, BC, Canada
ALPINE - Beyond Good and Evil, ED3 - Chamonix, France
HIMALAYA - Kedar Dome, 6984m, East Face FA - India
What are you working on? What are your goals for the future?
I am developing a new crag on an island near Vancouver. It’s 10km to get there, originally I went there on a SUP, which took 3hrs, now I use a Jetski and SUP and it takes about 8 minutes! I have a project there that I’m working on which is a sport climb, 40m pitch on a slightly over hanging wall. I managed to climb all the individual moves on the crux a couple off days ago for the first time, so excited to try and link it. It’s amazing!
I also have a long term sport project in Spain called Era Vella (F9a-50m). I’ve been there 4 times since 2017 and spent 55 days on it so far! In 2019 I got very close and fell after the 17th (last) bolt only a few feet away from the top. I’m planning to go there in September 2022 for a rematch.
I also have another project which combines 5 disciplines of climbing in the same year. Watch this space!
Why do you climb? What do you love about climbing?
The people, the places and the freedom it gives you away from the hustle and bustle of everyday city life. I love the adventure of going into the unknown, finding out what’s round the next corner, every climb is different, so many styles and rock types, beautiful places and impressive scenery. I love the heightened state of awareness when you can’t see your last piece of protection and you’re totally committed. Bring out your box of tricks and see if can stay on!
It can take you to some of the most amazing places in the world, it connects you to nature and gives you the opportunity to meet a community of friendly and like minded people. It also brings me into the present, and provide never ending goals to work towards, which when are achieved can be very rewarding. I also really enjoy the different styles of climbing that you can move between with changing seasons.
Which Scarpa shoe is your favourite?
Instinct VR is my favourite allrounder. Drago’s are my favourite hard sport climbing shoes, so sensitive and high performance too. The mountain boots are some of the best in the world.
For running the Spin Ultra is a amazing. Very comfortable with toe protection and even though it ultra light it still has lots of support.
Tell us about your best day climbing?
Climbing the nose on El Cap in 8.5 hours then taking the express route back down with Sean Leary.
What do you do away from your sport?
Free Diving instructor, stone mason, public speaker, climbing coach