Choosing the right climbing shoes can make or break your performance on the wall.
Whether you're bouldering, sport climbing, or tackling trad routes, understanding shoe types, fit, and features is essential. This guide breaks down the basics, from neutral to high performance designs, helping you find the perfect pair for your climbing style and level. Let’s get started.
What is a climbing shoe and why do you need it?
Climbing shoes are purpose built footwear which allow an individual an increased ability to stand on small or slanted footholds. They achieve this by a tight, compressive fit which allows the foot to work as a single, braced unit. A specially developed ‘sticky rubber’ outsole also provides increased grip on the rock face, wall or climbing holds.
Should they hurt?
No! Climbing shoes should be tight but not painful. Eliminate as much internal space as possible so there are no gaps around your foot or folds in the upper material. Your foot should fill the shoe and you should not be able to move your foot around inside the shoe or wriggle your toes.
Sizing
This varies wildly between climbing shoe brands, with few being true to size. Always bear this in mind when switching between brands, ideally seeking the advice of expert shop staff who have used many brands and models will help here.
Dropping Sizes?
A common myth in climbing shoe fitting is that you must always size down from your regular shoe size. While downsizing can be helpful in achieving a precise fit, it's not a universal rule and shouldn't be your starting point. In fact, some climbers may need to size up to find a comfortable and functional fit. Many people don't actually know their true shoe size, relying instead on an average of their everyday footwear or outdated measurements—often from childhood. If you're unsure of your current size, get measured in-store or use a printable sizing chart (just make sure it's printed at 100% scale).
Climbing Shoe Terminology
- Last: Think of this as a reverse mould on which the climbing shoe is built- giving a model its unique fit.
- Upper: The fabric section of the shoe, usually constructed as a bootie.
- Midsole: An internal stiffener between the outsole and upper of the shoe. Rand: A strip or strips of rubber supporting the shape of the shoe, with the most notable being the strip running around the front of the toe box. In more techy models this works in tandem with the midsole and is referred to as a tension system.
- Outsole: The sticky rubber sole on the base. This may be full length/one piece (for support and rigidity) or split/two-piece (more form-fitting with improved foot-to-shoe connectivity).Asymmetric: The level of lateral curve in the shoe, highlighted by the toe point of the shoe being off-centre to varying degrees.
- Knuckle-up: The ability to bunch the toes inside the shoe for improved precision and support on very small holds.
- Downturned: The level of curve on the vertical axis, highlighted by shoes with a more banana-like shape. Improves performance on steep climbs.
- Volume: The 3-Dimensional space inside the shoe, sometimes confused (inaccurately) with width.
- Women’s/LV: A lower volume counterpart to the standard version of the model.
Types of Shoes
- Neutral/Classic: Flat fitting shoes, usually with a one-piece outsole and low profile upper. Minimal asymmetry and no downturn in the shape. Perfect for a first climbing shoe or those looking for comfort over all other attributes.
Examples: Reflex VS, Origin VS. - Technical: Shoes with some level of knuckle-up, and perhaps a higher degree of asymmetry but no downturn.
Examples: Vapour S, Vapour V, Arpia, Veloce Lace. - High Performance: Shoes where performance is king and comfort is secondary, usually featuring a degree of knuckle-up, asymmetry and downturn in their construction.
Examples: Drago, Instinct VSR, Chimera.
Velcro or Lace?
This really is user preference, but simply put…
- Velcro: offers quick and easy on-off.
- Lace: provides slightly more adjustment, but more effort to take on and off.
Stretch
Shoes with more rubber components on the upper and a more complex (multi-panel) construction will stretch less than shoes with a more simple construction.
The tighter a shoe is fitted the more it will stretch over its lifespan. In principle leather stretches more than synthetic fabrics, however this is only useful when comparing models with an extremely similar type of construction. For example, a thick leather shoe with lots of rubber on the upper will still stretch less than a synthetic shoe without such construction features and the use of a thinner material.
Rubbers: the basics.
All climbing shoe rubbers will give vastly superior performance and grip over standard footwear rubbers. That said, there are a range of compounds used within the category offering varying attributes.
Enduro Rubbers
Generally the types used on entry-level models, where durability takes precedence over performance. In Scarpa’s case we call our Enduro Rubber ‘Vision’ (used on the Reflex).
Performance Rubbers
Vibram is the industry leader and they offer two climbing-specific compounds, both widely used and providing balanced performance on any style of climbing. That being said, they do have specific attributes which identify them:
- XS GRIP2: The softer of the two compounds and best suited to climbing where the user is predominantly standing on large sloping holds where much of the sole is in contact with the climbing surface.
- XS EDGE: A harder compound which excels when the climber is standing on small footholds, where less of the sole is in contact with the climbing surface.
SCARPA also uses S72 on the Origin VS and Veloce models; this is also a performance rubber, similar in its attributes to that of Vibram XS Grip2.
In conclusion, understanding the key aspects of climbing shoes— correct fit, model variance, stretch and rubber varieties—can greatly improve your comfort, performance, and confidence on the wall. Knowing how materials stretch helps ensure the right fit over time, while the type of rubber influences grip and durability. Different shoe designs cater to specific climbing styles, from bouldering to trad, and becoming familiar with industry terminology helps you make informed choices.
Whether you're a beginner or an experienced climber, taking the time to find the right shoe fit is crucial for both progression and enjoyment in the sport. Choose wisely to climb confidently and fully enjoy the experience
