Erin McNeice

Name: Erin McNeice

Hometown: Wrexham

Sport: Climbing

I think a lot of people would’ve considered me a boulderer not too long ago. A lot of lead work was put in over the winter training season, and now I believe I’m equal at both. I compete as a combined athlete, both lead and boulder.

Get to know Erin

Tell us about your successes so far?

My successes have only really started this season. I made my first World Cup boulder finals, as well as my first World Cup lead semis and then finals.

I got two bronze medals at the Olympic Qualifier Series (my first ever international podiums). Now I’m looking forward to the Paris Olympic Games!

What are you working on? What are your goals for the future?

Currently, I'm training for the Olympics. After that, I want to attend the European Championships and the rest of the 2024 World Cup Season.

Next year will hopefully be much of the same (obviously minus the Olympics). I would love to make a World Cup podium, that is a big dream of mine, so I’ll probably focus on that.

Why do you climb? What do you love about climbing?

To put it simply, climbing makes me happy. I look forward to going climbing. I also really enjoy competing. Feeling the pressure of performing and executing, hearing the crowd get behind you and the consequence of mistakes is all part of the experience, and I love the it.

You’re competing against the best in the world so if you fail to get up a problem, chances are someone else will get up it. It can be devastating but it can also be absolutely electric. When I’m competing and I’m in the right mindset, enjoying it and climbing well, it’s the most exciting thing I’ve ever done and the most fun I’ve ever had.

Which SCARPA shoe is your favourite?

The Drago LV is my go to for pretty much any scenario. I use them for boulder and lead, and feel really confident using them for anything.

Tell us about your best day climbing?

My best day climbing is pretty recent as it would have to be the finals of the Olympic Qualifier series in Budapest. Making finals basically secured me an Olympic ticket. I was so psyched I barely slept at all that night.

Finals was pretty early in the morning and I was ready to just enjoy it. Boulder went alright and I was so excited to get on the lead route. I ended up getting the bronze. To be able to celebrate, not just an Olympic ticket but also a podium, with my family and my friends felt absolutely amazing.

What do you do away from your sport?

I love reading and I’ll read pretty much anything. But I love classics in particular. I also am really interested in space and astronomy. I think it’s fascinating and I enjoy learning about it.

Other than the nerdy stuff, I spend quite a lot of time with my family. My brother is obsessed with golf with friends, so I spend a chunk of time trying to beat him at that if I’m on a rest week or deloading..

Where is your #NoPlacetooFar?

Tokyo, Japan. I really enjoyed my time training and competing there in 2023. I really want to get out there in the 2024 training season. The blocs there are super hard and a really interesting style. And everyone is super strong!

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