I found climbing when I was fourteen and instantly became a climber. I grew up in Shropshire, England and learnt to climb on the soft sandstone of Nesscliffe. Having spent much of my adolescence escaping to the crag it was inevitable that I would pursue climbing as an adult.
I've now been climbing for around fifteen years, in which time climbing has developed from a hobby into a lifestyle. I've now made my home among the mountains in North Wales, where I work teach climbing as an MCI instructor. Now I work and travel to climb, whether it's in the UK, Europe or further afield. I enjoy sport, trad, and bouldering and consider myself a bit of an all-rounder, but mostly I try to find my limit on the end of a rope. I’ve always been curious about the psychological side of climbing, which has drawn me to UK trad and on to bigger, wilder challenges overseas.
Get to know Angus
Tell us about your successes so far?
E9 trad climbs have been some of my most rewarding experiences. Each one was different and challenged me in a different way, my favourites are: Indian Face E9 6b/c, Mission Impossible E9 6c, Walk of Life E9 6c and Muy Caliente! E9 6c.
Free Climbing El Capitan is one of my favourite memories, it took a week for us to climb El Corazon 5.13b/8a, spending so long on the wall was a really immersive climbing experience.
Trad onsights such as Very Big Springs E7, The Great White E6/7 and Surgical Lust E7 are all memorable experiences that really challenged my trad climbing and onsight ability.
I love the athleticism of sport climbing, my biggest successes so far are Mind Control 8c in Oliana and Sex After Climb 8c/+ at Otiñar. Flashing The Colonist 8a+ in Geyikbayiri was also a highlight, and onsighting Tufandango 8a+ in Leonidio.
Bouldering successes include: The Middle Way 8A in Hampi, Diesel Power 8A in Llanberis Pass and Fourteen Years Later sit 8A on the Great Orme.
What are you working on? What are your goals for the future?
I’m working on pushing my trad harder, and training for sport projects through the winter. I’m also looking forward to getting away on bigger trips to bigger walls, when I get the chance!
Why do you climb? What do you love about climbing?
Climbing is special because it challenges you so individually, you find your own way to the top and failure is judged by gravity rather than some arbitrator. It’s also really varied, even within the same discipline and even the same grade, you can get a really different challenge from one route to the next. It also combines athleticism with physical skill, as well as a unique psychological element, especially if you’re into trad or adventurous climbing. Combine all of that with the chance to be outdoors in amazing places – it’s hard to beat.
Which Scarpa shoe is your favourite?
Instinct VS, as it’s so reliable and versatile. I also love the Chimera and the Boostic which I find offer better but more specific performance.
Tell us about your best day climbing?
I walked up to Clogwyn du’r Arddu with half a mind to climbing Indian Face E9 6b/c. It had been playing on my mind for a long time, and I couldn’t quite convince myself it was a good idea, but when I got to the crag, the first and second ascensionists – Johnny Dawes and Nick Dixon – were both there, and it didn’t seem like such a crazy idea in their company. I tied in and the route went like a dream, it couldn’t have been better..
What do you do away from your sport?
I like to travel, read, watch Netflix and eat fine chocolate.
