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Mountaineering - Scotland

Guy Robertson

A passionate mountaineer and writer, Guy lives with his family in Aberdeen, Scotland, where he works for a low carbon energy engineering consultancy. He has put up new rock and winter climbs in regions as diverse as Africa, the Middle East, the Alps, Peru, Norway and the Greater Himalaya. However, it is for his explorations in Scotland he is rightly best known, having for many years been at the forefront of exploratory climbing there both in winter and on rock.

In the early 2000’s Guy made second ascents of many of the hardest winter test-pieces from the 1980’s and 1990’s, and since then has pioneered dozens of first ascents across Scotland up to grade X. These are typically long and sustained mixed routes, often in very remote locations, and always climbed from the ground up. This committing and adventurous approach encapsulates the very essence of what Scottish winter climbing is all about.

Guy has also established a reputation for finding beautiful new hard lines on Scottish mountain rock, climbing a batch of high-quality routes in the Cairngorms and Northwest Highlands up to E7. Despite his penchant for quality over quantity, he has now climbed more than 300 new routes in Scotland alone, making him one of the country’s most prolific pioneers of recent times.
He has also now published three coffee table books on Scottish climbing – the Great Mountain Crags of Scotland (2015); The Great Sea Cliffs of Scotland (2020) and The Great Mixed Climbs of Scotland (2025) – with several other books in the pipeline.

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Phantom Tech HD

Winter mountaineering boot for technical ice and mixed climbs
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"Climbing for me is about having interesting and challenging adventures with good people in wild places, and being part of the story we’re all writing and play acting every time we tie onto the rope."

Guy Robertson

  • I think I’d have to say climbing “The Messiah” (Scottish X) on Beinn Bhan’s Giant’s Wall – more than a decade after first seeing it, but never quite finding it in acceptable condition, then blasting up it gave a tremendous fight. After leading the harrowing third pitch, Greg was completely shot and told me in no uncertain terms I was leading the roof or we were going home. I proceeded to take three, ever longer lobs before finally pulling the lip and somehow staying on…
  • Finding and climbing a three incredible new multi pitch rock routes (E5 to E7) on the stunning Skull Buttress on Quinag in Northwest Scotland. To open up a completely new cliff like this with routes of this quality and difficulty is almost unheard of these days. I even got to name the cliff! I believe “Land of the Lost” (E7) is now generally regarded as one of the best of its grade anywhere.
  • The first winter ascent of the seemingly impregnable walls of Segla on Senja Island with Greg Boswell and Hamish Frost in Norway in 2024 – this route was really special, taking a super scintillating line up what looks like Yosemite-style rock climbing territory; desperately hard, but with just enough to make it work ground up! I’ve also never laughed so much on a climb before. “The Horns of Segla” (400m Scottish IX/X) was so-named due to a shared flatulence issue by the team on the day.
  • A bit more outside the box, a long day at the end of the winter season of 2025 saw him complete a personal challenge to climb four routes at Grade IV or above (solo) in the four main peaks of the Cairngorms. The result was more than 35km of walking, something like 2500m of height gain and 800m of climbing, culminating in the solo first ascent of a new Grade V mixed climb on the remote summit of Braeriach.